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Fez is the
spiritual heart of Arabic Morocco. The city, one of the oldest
medieval cities in the world, is one of the holiest in Islam.
In fact, so precious is Fez's history, architecture, and culture
that the entire city has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage
site. It is, simply, the soul of the Moroccan kingdom.
Fez
was founded by Moulay Idriss, grandson of the prophet Mohammed
in the 9th century, as the capital of his Islamic kingdom, and
has served at various times as the capital of the country, and
the principal residence of Morocco's kings.
As important
as its role in Morocco's national origins, for more than a millennium
Fez has been one of the lights of knowledge, learning, culture
and spirituality. Its Kairyaoune University is argued to be
the oldest in the world, dating to 850 c.e., and was one of
the places responsible for keeping alive the light of ancient
knowledge during Europe's dark ages.
The
medina of Fez, the largest in
Morocco, houses some 60,000 residents,
and is organized around trade. Fez is known for the extraordinary
quality of its imperial crafts, such as fassi pottery,
extraordinary leatherwork, and incredible complex zellij tile
mosaics.
In the end,
Fez is both sacred and mysterious, its spirit both evocative
and elusive, even to those that know her well.
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Marrakesh
is the jewel of the south, one of the four
Imperial cities of Morocco, and an important cultural and commercial center set at
the foot of the High Atlas mountains.
Marrakech
is a city of vibrancy and solemnity, souk and square, palace
and riad, mosque and garden. It is a city wrapped in faded red,
ochre walls, and dominated by the Koutoubia mosque, visible
from throughout the city.
It
is also a crossroads - where ancient Arab culture of the valley
and the Berber culture of the mountains meet. At its center
is the deservedly famous Djemaa el Fna - a public space unlike
any found in any
city in Morocco, or the world. In the evenings,
as dusk approaches, the square hums with the activity of musicians,
food vendors, storytellers, snake charmers, the curious, the
odd. The spirit in the square is one of mystery, magic and possibility.
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Long
the province of the Berber tribes that fiercely resisted all efforts
at external governance, the High Atlas are less than an hour's
drive from Marrakesh. Two mountain passes, the Tiz n' Tichka,
and the Tizn n Test, cut through these mountains, past breathtaking
vistas, spectacular rock formations, and river valleys in their
beauty rivaling, if not surpassing, any others in the world. Hikers
and climbers from around the world come to the Atlas.
The people of
these extraordinarily beautiful, romantic mountains were, even
until quite recently, wholly untouched by modernity, still live
largely as they have for millennia, in small, self-sufficient communities.
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The Sahara
Desert
"The
Sahara is priest, mage, and confessor, a place
so purely itself, we can finally see ourselves clearly."
-
William McBride
Sahara:
the greatest desert in the world, rending Africa in two, with
its endless mountains of sand, dunes that stretch beyond the imagination.
Evenings of such clarity one can see the literal dome of the earth,
and fall asleep counting the innumerable stars - one forgets how
many there are. This is the land of camels, and nomads, of ancient
songs and the great winds.
The
Sahara is a challenge, not easily reached, but richly rewarding
those who make the journey. To get there, one travels along ancient
river routes, lined with oases, blooming, green lifelines that
extend like veins into the heart of the desert. Along these ancient
paths are constructed the ksar and kasbahs, mudbrick
fortresses and towns that rise mysteriously out of the very earth,
only to return, in time, like melting sandcastles.
Most famous
of these is the Draa Valley, the land of a thousand kasbahs,
starting point for trans-Saharan camel routes of old, when tens
of thousands of camels would make the perilous, many-months journey
across the sands to bring back treasures from the East.
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If Fez is the
spiritual heart of Arabic
Morocco, then Meknes, her smaller twin,
located a short distance to the west, is a center of Berber culture
and learning. Like Fez, Meknes has also served as the capital
of Morocco during a later point in the long dynastic struggles
of its Arabic and Berber leaders.
Meknes
occupies a plateau overlooking the Boufekrane River, and is less
trafficked than Fez, giving the city a more laid-back and relaxed
air.
The sights of
Meknes are extraordinary in their own right.
More than 40
kilometers of walls, each more than 12 feet thick, encircle
the city in three giant, concentric rings. Set in the walls are
exquisite gates, including the Bab Mansour, widely considered
to be the most beautiful gate in all of North Africa. One of the
four sacred sites open to non-Muslims, the Mausoleaum of Moulay
Ismail (the founder of Meknes) is located here, one of the most
stunning sights in Morocco.
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Volubilis
Once
the capital of the Roman province of Mauritania, as the region
was then known, the ruins of Volubilis are near-perfectly preserved,
providing a clear window into Roman urban planning and design.
The entire site was perfectly preserved for thousands of years,
until some of the marble was removed to build nearby Meknes. What
remains is still some of the most stunning Roman ruins outside
of Rome, with exquisitely impressive mosaics preserved, literally
where they were built.
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Essaouira
Nestled
along the southwestern Atlantic coast of Morocco, Essaouira is
a beautiful, white and quite coastal town, founded in the 16th
century as a trading post for the Portuguese. It is located amidst
some of the most spectacular seashore; virtually untouched beaches
lie only a few miles away from the heart of the town.
Now home to
50,000, Essaouira is one of the most beautiful cities in Morocco.
There are few things in Morocco more pleasurable than a stroll
along its whitewashed streets and crenellated ramparts, looking
out over the Atlantic ocean. And given its location, it boasts
some of the very best seafood in the country.
Essaouira is
also home to an annual festival of Gnaoua music, a powerful tribal
music wildly popular throughout Morocco.
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Chefchaouen
In
the North of the country, nestled in the Rif mountains, and a
short trip from Tangier is the small picturesque town of Chefchaouen.
Founded in 1492 by Moorish exiles from Spain, the town is decorated
in a mixture of whitewash and every shade of blue, from pastel
sky tones to deep indigos. The effect is dreamlike, making this
an extremely romantic place to rest for a few days.
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Rabat and Casablanca
The completely
modern city of Casablanca, Morocco's industrial center, bears
little resemblance to its famous movie namesake. (No scenes for
the famous film were even filmed here!) Like any other major city
in the world, Casablanca is filled with bustle and energy, and
most flights in and out of Morocco travel through its busy airport.
Casablanca
is deservedly famous for the Hassan II Mosque, one of the largest
in the world, and one of the few mosques open to non-Muslims in
the country. It is one of Morocco's most extraordinarily beautiful
statements to faith.
Rabat,
the great capital of Morocco, is unlike any other city in the
country. It is a country that reveals itself slowly, and one gets
the sense that it holds secrets of great value - and indeed it
does. For as imposing as the Royal Palace gates are, and as beautiful
as the city's great gardens, the real treasures are hidden from
view.
Rabat's treasures
include wonders wonders both ancient and modern, from the ruins
of Chellah to the Mausoleum of the great King Mohamed V, who brought
independence to Morocco and is credited with saving Morocco's
Jews from Nazi deportation during World War II.
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Related:
A Virtual
Tour: http://www.spin.si/robertb/morocco/
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